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Forestville's Twist is tiny but mighty

  • The Pulled Pork Sandwich from Twist Eatery in Forestville. (JOHN BURGESS / The Press Democrat)

Twist, a little hole-in-the-wall eatery in Forestville, serves the most substantial food in town.

We're talking big plates of good food, the amount of food you might find at an all-night truck stop somewhere along Interstate 40 near Oklahoma City. It's big food, but it's not mystery meat and gravy. It's California cooking with world influences writ large.

Twist opens at 11 a.m. except on Sundays and Mondays, when it is closed. If you get up late or like breakfast for lunch, check out chef Jeff Young's Daily Scramble ($12.95 ). On a recent visit, he scrambled organic eggs and lit them up flavorwise with chorizo, mushrooms, spinach and English farmhouse cheddar, turned the scramble onto a plate, and filled it out with hash browns and griddled toast. This is the kind of breakfast that will carry you right past dinner, if need be.

Twist Eatery

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The place is small, and the nine stools at the counter are often filled. There are some seats outside if the counter is full, and Toni Echols, chef Young's wife who serves the food and buses the tables and does everything that Young can't do, will bring your food outside to you.

Like any good diner, the prices are reasonable, but this being Forestville, the beverage list is better than most. Here's a half bottle of Merry Edwards 2010 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir for $32, and a whole bottle of 2010 Wine Guerilla Sonoma County Zinfandel for $24. If you want beer, there's Racer 5 IPA, Scrimshaw Pilsner, and yes, the obligatory PBR. Eleven non-alcoholic drinks include Boylan's black cherry and root beer, San Pellegrino citrus sodas, coconut water, Arnold Palmer iced tea and lemonade, and more.

The daily pasta special changes with the chef's whim, but on a recent night it was Spaghetti with Chicken ($12.95 ), a big plate of tasty pasta and tender chicken tethered to the flavorful bass note of mushrooms and set afire with sweet, fruity and spicy-hot ground Aleppo pepper flakes.

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